Simple Centrifuge
Clean waste vegetable oil (WVO), bio diesel, lube oils, and even hydraulic oil in your garage
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Photo Gallery - This gallery represents the work over several years. Some designs have been replaced and/or updated as time progressed. Most images contain a date stamp visable on the large version. Please note the date when viewing. We are always experimenting with new concepts and designs. If you have any questions about any photo please contact us.
Total photos in gallery 1280 - Latest photo update 2016/07/11 12:37:36
Asterisk(*) indicates new photos in the past 30 days
Adapter 56C to 56J ( 15 )
Algae Recovery ( 42 )
Bacterial fermentation ( 1 )
Balancer Mandrels ( 8 )
Bearing replacement ( 25 )
Botry Culture ( 2 )
Building a gantry ( 16 )
Chestnut Extract ( 9 )
CNC Coolant ( 6 )
Coconut Oil ( 8 )
Construction ( 43 )
Contaminated diesel ( 2 )
Craig's Machine ( 31 )
Cross Drill End Bell ( 10 )
Crude oil ( 5 )
Custom motor shaft ( 23 )
Experimental Motor ( 19 )
Explosion proof motor ( 3 )
Feed Cone ( 29 )
Feed Cone with Fins ( 6 )
Feed Tube ( 3 )
Filter Paper ( 7 )
Ford on WMO ( 2 )
Foundry ( 5 )
Foundry 2 ( 18 )
Gear pump ( 2 )
Grinding fluid ( 19 )
Grinding fluid 2 ( 14 )
Heaters ( 9 )
History ( 11 )
Homemade Diesel ( 7 )
Homemade diesel 2 ( 41 )
Homemade Diesel 3 ( 15 )
Homemade Diesel 4 ( 12 )
How it works ( 3 )
Hydraulic Oil ( 3 )
Keyless Bushing ( 11 )
Lab Centrifuge ( 16 )
Lab Centrifuge 2 ( 18 )
Lapidary Cutting Oil ( 2 )
Lock motor shaft ( 6 )
Magnesol removal ( 6 )
Microwave heater ( 7 )
Misc. Mods ( 4 )
Mitsubishi 4x4 on WMO ( 10 )
New Feed Cone ( 16 )
New Feed Tube ( 7 )
New Rotor 2013 ( 24 )
New rotor design ( 16 )
Oil and Contaminants ( 42 )
Oil Skimmer ( 8 )
Our Shop ( 37 )
Peristaltic Pump ( 29 )
Powder Coating ( 10 )
Renderings ( 8 )
Retrofit rotor for WVOD ( 17 )
Rework Mount ( 10 )
Rotor fins ( 34 )
Rotor Fins One Piece ( 6 )
Seal ( 6 )
Sea Weed ( 4 )
Sediment removal ( 16 )
See thru lid - Building ( 16 )
See thru lid - Testing ( 28 )
Skim Tube ( 56 )
Skim Tube for VCO ( 8 )
Small Settling Tank ( 14 )
Tanks ( 9 )
Tanks - Complete System ( 13 )
Tap drain ( 10 )
Testing Seal Screws ( 6 )
Tests by fuelfarmer ( 22 )
Turn key machine ( 38 )
Two part rotor ( 30 )
Ultrasonic filter cleaning ( 8 )
Updates ( 26 )
Users Machines ( 34 )
Vacuum pickup ( 3 )
VW on WMO ( 7 )
Water-Oil Seperator ( 7 )
Water trap ( 5 )
Wine Clarification ( 4 )
WVO Heat Tests ( 7 )
WVO Pump ( 6 )
WVO Tests ( 14 )
Cross Drill End Bell
On the early machines circa 2007, before the taper mount, the casting had a very short shoulder that relied on a rubber washer to act as a slinger seal. This generally prevented oil from entering the motor. It worked fine for a lot of customers but some liquids drained at different rates invariably leading to leakage into the motor. Repairing the motor is as simple as replacing the bearings but to prevent future issues we recommend drilling a drain into the DE (drive end) end bell. The process is simple and can be accomplished on a drill press. Here's how I did it. I used a 17/64th drill but a 1/4" would have been fine. I used what was handy.
The dimensions are not super critical. I set this up by eye. You want to be in the center of the cast boss. There is a mark on this endbell that will help you locate center. To ensure the boss is perpendicular to the vise I measured up to the bearing retainer bolt holes. Finished hole. I then rotated the part in the vise and drill down to meet the other hole. Be careful not to go too deep or you'll go through. I ensured the hole was perpendicular using a drill in the side hole and a square against the vise. The hole was spot on.
The dimensions are not super critical. I set this up by eye. You want to be in the center of the cast boss. There is a mark on this endbell that will help you locate center. To ensure the boss is perpendicular to the vise I measured up to the bearing retainer bolt holes. Finished hole. I then rotated the part in the vise and drill down to meet the other hole. Be careful not to go too deep or you'll go through. I ensured the hole was perpendicular using a drill in the side hole and a square against the vise. The hole was spot on.
This is the finished hole. Now if any oil get to the motor it will have a drain out the side of the motor. I needed to drill a new motor without taking it apart. Here is where you locate the drill. Drill carefully to a depth of 1.75
This is the finished hole. Now if any oil get to the motor it will have a drain out the side of the motor. I needed to drill a new motor without taking it apart. Here is where you locate the drill. Drill carefully to a depth of 1.75". Make sure it is straight.
Finished hole. Now flip the motor up on end and drill down to meet the hole drilled from the side. This is a close up of how the two holes should meet. Do not drill too deep.
Finished hole. Now flip the motor up on end and drill down to meet the hole drilled from the side. This is a close up of how the two holes should meet. Do not drill too deep.
Install the forsheda seal on the motor shaft and compress it so it is about 3/16 of an inch high.    
Install the forsheda seal on the motor shaft and compress it so it is about 3/16 of an inch high.    
Numeric Control, LLC
PO Box 916
Morton, WA 98356